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西点有哪些方面让你如此痴迷?
很多!我热爱西点!我知道这么说没什么新意,但是我内心涌动
着一股热潮,推动着我更努力地工作,只将最好的东西奉献给顾
客。我喜欢吃亲手制作的食物。我喜欢团队的氛围和厨房里的那
种友情。最重要的是,我乐于和他人分享技巧和知识,因为我所
掌握的知识也全是拜他人传授而得。这种*反哺*的过程让我的工
作变得很有意义。
能谈谈林您在西点烘焙业的偶像吗?
我觉得自己非常幸运
,
能和一些充满创意又乐于分享的大厨共
事。Stephane Leroux 真是一位神奇的大师。波士顿 Ritz-Carlton
的西点大厨 Frederick Loraschi 开阔了我的个人和职业眼界。哦,
当然咯,和雅典娜广场的 Christophe Michalak 一起工作也是我职
业生涯中的绝佳机遇。
您能谈谈拥有个人风格的重要性吗?
因人而宜。但是,个人风格强求不得。无论是作为一个普通人还
是作为一名西点大厨,每个人或多或少都有一些艺术家的潜质。
为什么不将童年时代的某些食品或是自己喜欢的某种蛋糕改头换
面,然后加入个人元素,加以改良呢?我觉得应该体验如何学习
,
并让此刻油然而生的艺术感引导你进行创作。
您经常奔赴各种国际美食展、烹饪聚会、现场展示等活动,那么
您对于眼下的西点烘焙业的竞争状况有何见解呢?竞争是否会损
害传统的西点价值观呢?
不会。原因很简单:口味仍然是各类竞赛的终极标准。大厨观点
的多元化能创造出全新的潮流,但是,必须牢记口味,因为这才
是烹饪艺术的基础。在2007西点世界杯上夺冠的日本就是一个最
好的例子。为什么呢?因为他们最终抓住了口味这一点。而且,
日本在国际舞台上的成功已经激起了日本国内对于高质量
欧风
西点的需求。由此可见,竞争对业界而言是一件好事。
我们来谈谈新食谱创作吧,请问您通常是如何进行创作的呢?
无论是看电视、读书报杂志还是在餐厅试验全新的口味,我的灵
感都会随时都会闪现。我总是不断思考该如何将新产品和餐厅整
体融合起来,同时也在思索维多利亚皇家汽车俱乐部和零售店铺
如何从中得益。我们经常将新产品和俱乐部的美酒进行搭配,然
后与俱乐部执行主厨Massimo Di Luca和资深斟酒服务员Christian
Maier 讨论产品的口味、质感和修饰。
您最中意哪种澳洲本地原料?您创作时强调时令感吗?
我喜欢用的澳洲本地原料包括牛奶、黄油(我喜欢乳制品)和维
多利亚出产的
粉红佳人
苹果。澳洲的许多上等果品和蔬菜都销
往亚洲等地,能选用这些原料真让人开心。最近我和妻子在吃健
康食品,创作时也更多地选取本地出产的有机产品。我希望这股
潮流能在世界范围内得到更加广泛的认可。
56 Pastry & Baking
Asia Pacific
Chef in Focus
craftsman. At the Ritz-Carlton in Boston, pastry chef Frederick
Loraschi opened my eyes professionally as well as personally.
And of course, working with Christophe Michalak at the Plaza
Athenee was one of the great opportunities in my career.
How important is it to have your own personal style?
Depends on the person. But, it can’t be forced. As pastry chefs
or individuals, we all have some degree of inner artist. Why not
rework something from our childhood or a cake that we enjoyed,
so we can put our personal touch, and change it for the better!
I believe we have to practice how we learned and then, let the
artistic sense of the moment take you from there.
You travel often to international food shows, culinary gatherings,
demos etc.What is your opinion on the state of today’s pastry
and baking competitions? Do you think they (competitions)
have a detrimental impact on traditional pastry values?
No. For the simple reason that taste continues to be an
overwhelmingly important criteria in these competitions. Sure,
the diversity of chef ’s viewpoints will create new trends but it
is essential not to forget the taste which is the foundation of
the craft. Case in point, look at Japan. Winners of the 2007
World Pastry Cup. Why? Because they finally nailed the taste.
And, their success on the international stage has fueled the surge
in demand inside Japan for high quality, “European” desserts.
Thus, competitions are a good thing for the industry.
Regarding new recipes, how does the creative process generally
work for you?
Inspiration comes at me all the time. From watching TV, reading
books and magazines or experimenting with new tastes in a
restaurant. I always try to anticipate how a new creation will
fit in with our organization and the value it will bring to the
RACV and our outlet. We often pair new products with our
club’s wine list and discuss the flavors, texture and finishes with
Massimo Di Luca, RACV Executive Chef and Christian Maier,
our renowned sommelier.
What are your favorite local ingredients and does seasonality
play a role in your products?
Milk, cream, butter (I love my dairies) as well the Pink Lady
apples from Victoria.
Many of our best fruits and vegetable go to Asia and beyond,
so it’s really a pleasure to work with these produces. Lately my
wife and I been eating healthy foods and using more organic
items from our region. It is a trend I hope to see become more
widely accepted around the world.
Pierrick and Olivier
Noumea Bar Petit Gâteau