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Ben’s Lab
Publisher’s Note:
Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto
Restaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science after
discovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach to
pastry is unconventional, to say the least. In addition to his
pastry chef duties, chef Roche also runs Roche Original
Concepts LLC, an organization focused on food design,
product development, and creative consultation.
70 Pastry & Baking
North America
Welcome to Ben’s Lab, a place where (noun) comes to (verb) and
then (adjective) (verb) in the face of a (noun). But this is Ben’s Lab,
not Ben’s Lib! So, let’s get started.
Today, I’d like to offer my own take on a true American classic:
the ice cream cone. While perhaps not as ‘prestigious’ as classic
puddings from Europe, our ice cream cone is steeped in tradition and
enjoys an iconic role in our society.
The cone’s origins are in jolly old England (as concocted and
written about by Agnes Marshall in 1888), but not until 1904 in St.
Louis did it really take off – at least as how we know it today. My cone
may look like a standard ice cream cone, but is made of both vanilla
ice cream and ‘cone’ ice cream shells filled with fruity goodies.
Photography by Kate Gross
Equipment Needed:
Parchment triangles for coronet
Non-stick cooking spray
Lab forceps
2 ounce ladle
Insulated container for LN2
LN2 (10 liters)
2 plastic 1 quart containers
Metal plate (for melting)
Blow torch
Ice cream cone puree
Vanilla ice cream base
Vanilla flavored whipped cream
Piping bag
Sprinkles for dipping/garnish
Ice Cream