Page 64 - NA_3_5_2009

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Wild Sweets
Publisher’s Note:
Dominique and Cindy Duby are the
chefs and owners of DC DUBYWild Sweets
®
, a critically
acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has
emerged as one of NorthAmerica’s finest artisan chocolatiers.
The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,
aVancouver-based international firm offering culinary training
and consulting services to hotels and catering companies
worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services
such as product development, food styling, and photography.
For more information, visit www.dcduby.com
62 Pastry & Baking
North America
As mentioned in Part 01, emulsification is the process of mixing two
ingredients that typically do not combine (i.e. a liquid and a fat) into
a stable homogenous mixture. In typical chocolate emulsions, cocoa
butter is the fat and cream is the liquid. And like other emulsions,
chocolate emulsions are also very prone to separation, so it is important
to use a correct formula, temperature and shearing action to combine
these two elements. If a formula does not have the proper ratio of cocoa
butter to cream, or has too much sugar (whether added or from the
chocolate itself ), the emulsion will not yield a ganache or cream that
is smooth, shiny, elastic, and firm enough to be cut, if used as a filling
to enrobe. Incorrect temperature is the next major cause of separation.
Once the hot cream is poured over the chopped chocolate, and at all
times during the emulsification process, the mixture must remain at a
temperature higher than 95
º
F (35
º
C) – the point of fusion of cocoa
butter – and preferably between 95
º
F and 105
º
F (35
º
C and 40
º
C). For
best results, we recommend making chocolate emulsions in a tall, narrow
container using an immersion blender. Through the use of the
hydrocolloid agar, traditional emulsions can be transformed into modern
culinary preparations by being set firm enough to be cut and shaped
into various presentations (knot, ribbon, ring, etc.). And the use of agar
allows these shaped emulsions to be served warm without melting or
losing their shape.
Shaped Dark Chocolate Cream
6.7 oz (190 g) 70% dark chocolate, melted
2 Tbsp (30 mL) water
1
/
2
tsp (1.5 g) ARGUM
4 Tbsp + 1 tsp (65 g) corn syrup
2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream
1
1
/
2
tsp (8 g) gelatin mix
EMULSIFICATION | PART 2
Add remaining whipping cream and bring just to a
boil. Remove from the heat. Add gelatin, stir to
combine, and pour over chocolate. Blend until
chocolate and cream are well combined. Pour
chocolate cream into prepared pan. Refrigerate for
at least 1 hour, or until set. Using a ruler and a thin,
sharp knife, cut cream into strips and arrange into
desired shapes. Serve cold, or warm just before serving
in a 225
°
F (105
°
C) oven for a few minutes.
Suggested Serving
Serve shaped chocolate cream with assorted fresh
fruits (I.e. mango strips, strawberry slices, fresh orange
segments, etc.). Decorate with a few micro greens
and chocolate decor of your choice.
Line a 6 x 12-inch frame with plastic wrap. Place
chocolate in a tall, narrow container. Blend water and
ARGUM using an immersion blender or mixer until
well combined. In a saucepan, bring ARGUMmixture,
corn syrup, and one-third of whipping cream to a
boil, whisking constantly. Blend again with immersion
blender to make sure all ARGUM is dissolved.