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Wild Sweets
Publisher’s Note:
Dominique and Cindy Duby are the
chefs and owners of DC DUBYWild Sweets
, a critically
acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has
emerged as one of NorthAmerica’s finest artisan chocolatiers.
The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,
aVancouver-based international firm offering culinary training
and consulting services to hotels and catering companies
worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services
such as product development, food styling, and photography.
For more information, visit
62 Pastry & Baking
North America
As mentioned in previous articles, although gelatin is the major
hydrocolloid used for gelling, other types of hydrocolloid are available
to form gels in culinary preparations. Gellan Gum is one of these
alternatives. Gellan is obtained by fermentation of Sphingomonas
elodea and there are 2 different types of Gellan Gums available
(and/or Gellan replacers) including – LA (low acyl) and HA (high
acyl) – and depending on the type forms either soft (HA) or firm
(LA) gels. LA Gellan is used to form thermoirreversible, hard, brittle
gels whereas HA Gellan forms thermoreversible, soft and elastic
gels. It is best to add sugar after dispersion or hydration and note
that sodium and/or calcium ions can inhibit proper hydration.
However, the addition of a sequestrant like sodium citrate binds
calcium and helps hydration (HA Gellan is less sensitive to
ions). Mixture must be heated to between 85 to 95
C for complete
hydration and gel forming properties to initiate. Through the use
of the hydrocolloid Gellan, traditional sauces or bases creams like
Crème Anglaise can be transformed into very light, foam like desserts
that are set firm enough to be cut and shaped into various
presentations and allowed to be served warm, even caramelized on
the top, without melting or losing their shape. The idea of this
dessert is based on the classical Bavaroise or Crème Anglaise, but
unlike traditional gelatin-set recipes, this version and can be served
warm without melting.
Warm Sauce Anglaise Foam
6 large egg yolks
50 g granulated sugar
1 fresh vanilla bean
250 mL whipping cream
125 mL milk
Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape seeds into a large heatproof
bowl. Whisk in egg yolks, sugar and cream until well combined.
Place the bowl over a saucepan of hot water and cook, whisking
constantly until mixture is
C and keep hot. Pour the milk into
a tall, narrow container and blend with an immersion blender while
slowly adding GELAR (or use a close cap blender). Continue to
blend until all combined. Pour milk-GELAR mixture into the egg-
sugar-cream mixture and heat again until mixture is back to is
C. Pour into prepared pan. Let stand at room temperature
until set, and then refrigerate. Just before service, cut into desired
shape and warm in a low temperature oven.